Chef David is impressive, regardless of when you visit. During the day, natural light spills through the floor-to-ceiling windows and shines off patent-leather seats, polished concrete walls and brass finishes. After sunset, new life is breathed into the mammoth 160-seater space – neon signs glow, strobe lights swirl in patterns across every surface and TV screens light up with pop music videos.

As with sister restaurants David’s Hotpot and David’s Spicy Pot, Sichuan-style spicy beef tallow-based broth reigns supreme here – but there are eight other soup flavours to try, each drawing inspiration from across Asia. Choose from Thai-inflected tom yum, a Malaysian seafood soup, a spicy Chengdu-style broth and an even spicier Chongqing-style number.

Orders are made through an iPad, but staff can walk you through everything too. There are more than 100 ingredients you can cook in your hotpot, from thinly sliced Wagyu and scallops in the half-shell, to soft tofu cubes and lotus root.

À la carte options take a street-food route with modern dishes such as deep-fried pork cutlets dusted with chicken salt and Sichuan-spiced French fries. If you’re feeling adventurous, don’t miss offal options including spicy grilled pig’s brain.

The drinks list is extensive, covering spirits, wines, tap beers and bubble tea. There are 10 mocktails and 15 cocktails. Try the Negroni made with house-infused lychee gin, a chocolate-espresso martini, or a sour made with Chinese baijiu (a spirit that dates back to 1573).